11/13/2005

Painted Face: Smokey

To achieve the smokey look, apply foundation as you normally would...make sure your skin looks as natural as possible.

You will want to avoid glimmery, sparkly and shimmery colors on your face. Only the eyes and hints of highlight, here and there, will incur the wrath of glimmer. Careful color choice and blending are the keys to keeping a smokey look (or any look, for that matter) from looking cheap or harsh, so blend your makeup well. You can use your fingertips to blend, or a blending brush, cosmetic sponge, small face puff...whatever you are most comfortable using.

Start by defining the brows. You'll want a strong but natural look, so I recommend a good set of brow powders and a professional angled brow brush--use Paula Dorf's or Sephora's. My favorite brow powders are either Paula Dorf's brow powder duos or Joey New York's State of the Arch set. Use an appropriate color of brow dressing to complement the skin and hair. Set with brow gel.

Next lay in the base eyelid color all over the eye lids, from lash line to brow. Press a light, neutral color like Maybelline's ExpertWear Shadow in Champagne Fizz or Silken Taupe. Next contour the mobile eyelid and crease with a deep, smokey color. We chose to color-match the model's eye color and went with Ulta's Eye Shadow in Mystique. Really work that color into the lid and crease with a contour brush and be sure to blend well, either with a fluffy crease brush or your fingertip. Using a smudge brush or sponge, line the eyes, all but the very inner corner, with a slightly darker color than the lid color, one like Lola Cosmetics Eye Shadow in Mystic Eyes. Highlight the browbone, center of the lid and inner corner of the eye with a high-shine color like Sugar Baby's Ice Princess Eye Line & Shine in Natural Born Princess. Again, blend well.

Select a cheek color that is a few shades darker than your natural skin color. I went with Bloom's Aloha Bronzing Powder. Apply the cheek color in the hollows of the cheeks for a dramatic look. Continue contouring the face by applying color over the brows on the forehead, touch the temples, chin and jawline with color. Don't forget to blend.

Dot concealer where needed and pat into skin to blend. Apply a light (very light!) dusting of translucent face powder like Studio Gear's Translucent Loose Powder. Pat the powder into the skin with a velour face puff; do not use sweeping motions with your powder puff or you will remove the powder you just applied, along with the makeup underneath it.

Highlight by applying Revlon's Face Illuminator, either powder or lotion, in the middle of the forehead, down the bridge of the nose, the cupid's bow of the upper lip, the top of the cheek bones and the apple of the chin. Blend...yes, again.

For a smokey look, you want to keep the mouth fairly light and neutral. Here I lined the lips and filled in with Prestige Cosmetics Automatic Lip Liner in Nude. Top with a light, shimmery (yes, shimmer is okay on the lips) lip gloss.

Last, curl the lashes and apply 2-3 coats of a lash building mascara like Bourjois Pump up the Volume.

Smokin'!

3d model by www.webe3d.com